Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Companion Plants - Vegetable Garden



The companion plants for the vegetable garden will aid the gardener in reducing plant damage from insects, and help reduce the need for chemical remedies.
Companion plants draw insects to the garden for several important tasks. One task is pollination. For plants to produce fruit or seeds, these plants need to be pollinated. 

The second task is survival.  The plant world has survived due to, in part, the relationship plants have made with others. Nature has a way to providing protections from insects and diseases just by having the right companion plants in the neighborhood. Some companion plants lure pests away from their target plant while, yet, others can repel insects in the vicinity all together.


Today, we are going to focus on Insectary plants – those plants that lure insects to the garden.  Insects that can prey on problem insects are called beneficial insects. Let’s focus on the plants that draw in the ‘good guys’.  Later, we will indicate the damage that the ‘pests’ can do to crops and plants.

cilantro with bee
Bee on cilantro
dill
Dill blooms
Carrots, Queen Anne’s Lace, Dill and Cilantro plants are in a plant family called Umbellifers.  These plants will bring a host of beneficial insects to the garden.

 
chamomile with insects
Chamomile will bring many beneficial insects to the garden like hover-flies and wasps.
 
Alyssum, is a pretty little plants with tons of blooms and fragrance.  This plant will self-seed and adds a dainty ground cover around the garden. images (3)

Monarda, or Bee Balm, is a taller Insectary plant that blooms in the mid-season.  Many different bees, wasps, and hummingbirds adore this plant. monarda with bee

Cornflower, or perennial bachelor’s button, can be a great companion plant for inviting beneficial insects.  And any member of the Aster family, like yarrow, tansy, cosmos and coreopsis will certainly draw the insects to the garden. The pollen and nectar of these plants entices the beneficial insects to the garden.
image
Plants starting at top left: Buckwheat, Calendula, Yarrow, Poppy, Marigolds, Cornflower, Goldenrod, Tansy.

Chives and catnip are garden favorites.  Mint and oregano act as Insectary plants in addition to enhancing the herb garden.
chives
Chives in flower.
tachinid fly on catnip
Tachinid fly on catnip.
mint with metalic flies
Mint with metallic flies.
bee on oregano
Bee on Oregano

borage
Borage , annual Herb
sunflowers by MantisOwners
Sunflowers in Garden
comfrey blooms in May
Comfrey in Bloom in May
red-cabbage-with-nasturtiums
Nasturtiums  in Cabbage Bed
Planning a vegetable garden with beneficial companion plants is going to 1) help remedy some insect damage of crops, and 2) can dress up the garden with color. By inter-planting these vegetables with Insectary plants the garden will not only look great, but the crops will thrive.











Sunday, March 10, 2013

Creating A Vegetable Garden


Having been questioned about the process to create a vegetable garden, I have compiled several methods that I would find easy to build, and easy to harvest great vegetables.
 
intensive french mound

This type of bed is called the ‘intensive French Mound’.  The rows are built up with layers of garden soil, and compost.  Many gardeners prefer to ‘double-dig’ this with the thinking that loose soil below will enhance the crops and develop deeper roots.  I would find this process very hard work, and therefore, the ‘easy’ choice, at least for me, would not be the intensive French mounds.

Adding organic matter such as compost or packaged garden mixes is essential in creating soil that is high in nutrients, and allows water to get to the roots of the plants.  Several garden soil mixes I like are Posy -Power(C), and Paygro.(C) These products provide composted materials, composted manures, and peat to give the plants a great start. (I receive no compensation for mentioning these products.  I just like them.)

These raised beds can be raked higher than the paths between the rows, or, as seen here, borders of lumber can be used to keep soil in place.  The ‘intensive’ planting is by either planting across the row, of by zig-zaging the plants closely together.  This cross row plantings is easy to reach from either side for weeding and harvesting.

Easy reach pathways reduce compaction of the soil. By stepping on the planting beds, air and water are pushed out of the soil, greatly reducing nutrients and oxygen from the plants roots and cause compaction. 

Garden 1 wide rows
This garden has ‘wide rows’.  A gardening method that simply scatters seed across the whole row without making lines or worrying about spacing of the seeds.  This close scatter seed for lettuce or spinach, works as a living mulch, and keeps soil cool – a requirement for lettuce and spinach.  Weeds are kept to a minimum too, as the plants block out light that weeds need.

images (5)
Wide rows can also be planted with bedding plants in a single, double or even a triple row across the span of the row. By putting plants in rows about 4” – 5” apart, again, more food can be grown in a minimal of space.
new ideas for gardening blog
New Ideas Garden Blog featured this neat, compact garden style with paved pathways, and all of the beds are accessible from all sides for easy maintenance.
trellis for vine plants
Peas, beans, melons, squash, zucchini, and cucumbers will all benefit from trellis climbing.  The vines will be off the ground,and not sprawling all over the garden. Light will be available, and harvesting will be easier. Air flow around the plants will lessen diseases.  These trellis can be purchased assembled, or created by using reclaim wood, sticks, or even, PVC piping tied together. 
Vertical gardens take advantage of upward growing of many vine vegetables, and allows the main beds to grow other varieties

grid garden 
Grid gardens also referred to as ‘square-foot gardening’ sets a pattern of squares for different crops.  Some squares can be plants in the center, one plant, while other sections can be planted at the four corners, rows of three or four, or one row of four right down the center of the square.
 
Larger vegetables require more space, like Broccoli, Cabbage, and Eggplant.  Only one plant per square for these vegetable. 

sq. ft garden

images (1)
Raised beds can be as deep, or as shallow as needed.

Use untreated wood for these raised versions of gardens. Treated wood is processed with chemicals, and can leach into the food crops. Cedar and redwood have natural  resistance to insects and hold up well in the garden. Pine and fir can be used, but may need to be replaced after several years.



Raised beds can be as decorative as needed.
IMG_9377
Vertical mesh fencing adds height for upward growing.
Other styles of vertical gardening are being promoted in the home farmden. Take a wall, with many of these systems, and move the garden upward.



vert. vegg garden
Gutter are installed on wall for shallow leafy vegetables.
IMG_9372
Cell tray is planted and mounted on Wall. 
verticle veg garden
Garden that extends upward on deck or courtyard.

This was is very creative in planting window boxes, trailing vines, and getting sunlight to the plants.  Watering is simplified by grouping these containers together.

Creative ingenuity or necessity have devised ways to extend our vegetable gardens to meet our space features, and provide food for the family. Expressing ourselves with food growing has a way of nurturing our bodies and souls. 

Thursday, March 7, 2013

Garden Journal–Take Note


Gardening and farming are dependent on insects to pollinate plants.  Plants need moisture.  And sunlight affects the plants growth. This symbiotic relationship between plants, nature, and pollinators is critical to the ecosystems that exist. But, according to the BBC news, “the past 100 years or so, many plants that have just used day-length have become locally extinct. Yet plants that have used temperature to control when they flower have increased their range considerably and now seem much more common.  That makes a lot of sense because those plants will be able to out-compete other species in a climate change scenario”
fruit tree
So, with climate change, no matter how subtle, observations in the garden are more important than ever.  Phenology, the study of recurring biological phenomena and their relationship to the weather.  If day length is a trigger for a plant to bloom, or if temperature is the trigger, these distinctions may help us plant more on the plant’s schedule than by the calendar. 

I am going to keep a Journal.  Garden journals document when a bug first appeared or when the fruit tree blossoms erupted.  The date, temperature, and rain accumulations for the year will be noted. 

100_1906 100_1907
Keeping track of the garden will be easy with pictures, and notes.  Plant tags for new plantings, and dates that fertilizers were added will be documented.

100_1903
Before and after photos will remind me of past projects, and the continued care for that area.  Is it sunny, shady, wet, dry, and what changes have occurred in this area.
One method I have for keeping track of my garden is this plot map.  This has my property dimensions, and by using tracing paper, I can draw garden beds in.
100_1901
I then indicated on the site map , dots and circles to indicated plants and shrubs, and trees.  Fences that border some of these areas is also marked.
100_1908100_1909
As I have been a blogger for several years now, I noticed in my writing that on ‘such a date’, I mentioned Japanese Beetles. And I commented that this date was pretty early in the season.  Well, imagine my surprise, when the previous year’s blog was referenced, the Japanese Beetles were actually mentioned almost 2 weeks earlier.  So my observations from here on, need to be accurate. The Journal is going to be my date by date observations.  Temperature by highs and lows for the day, and daylight amounts with sunrise and sunset will be recorded.   
My erroneous reporting , while an embarrassment, is not the incentive to keeping a journal.  Noting insects dates will help prepare for an early intervention.  For example,  Japanese beetles send in a few guys to set up occupancy of the garden.  By knowing the date they arrived last year, I can be on the lookout, pick off the few, and the ‘pheromones’ will not be luring in the rest of the ‘clan’.
Japanese-Beetle ON rose of sharon

The same observations of powdery mildew can give a heads-up to applying a preventative spray. 
powdery mildew
Insects emerge when certain plants bloom.  This relationship can greatly assist the gardener and farmer to be aware of the cycles, and take appropriate actions. The plants and insects emerge in the same order each year, and is not connected to the weather that occurred in the winter or spring.  So the blooms of plants can accurately predict the insects that will be on the scene.  Imagine if the plant, say a fruit tree bloomed, but the bees and other pollinators were not around?  Nature takes these relationships very seriously, and isn't it wonderful she does?

Likewise, insects use these patterns to mate and bear young based on what the young will need to eat to survive.  
images (1)

My journaling is already behind a bit, since many bulbs have already broken ground, and I did not note the date.  But I will move ahead, and get my camera ready to capture events as they unfold in my garden.




A feature I am looking forward to is planning outdoor events in the garden.  By checking the dates of what was blooming last year, I can select a party date that will give more to the party decorations and I'll be able to show off the garden at optimal times throughout the season.

Do you keep a Garden Journal?  What information do you keep?  

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

10 Steps - Greener, Healthier Lawns

 
Thanks to Philip Brown for guest posting today. - Claudia, Gardening Naturally

About the Author: Philip Brown considers himself a lawn care enthusiast. A loyal employee of Trugreen for close to 12 years, Philip now spends his time sharing what he knows with others. When he’s not blogging about lawn management and lawn care, you can find him tending to his own front yard down in Loganville, Georgia . Contact Philip at  http://thelawnenthusiast.blogspot.com/
 
For many homeowners, including myself, there is a real sense of pride and satisfaction that comes with maintaining a thick and beautiful green lawn. But managing a lawn can sometimes place a significant burden on our environment, especially when we overuse different chemicals and don’t stop to think about what the grass on our particular lawn really needs. So how can we go about “greening” our lawn care? Here are 10 steps to get you started.

1. Pick the Right Grass
Make sure you’re planting the right seed for your environment. While the region where you live will determine the type of grass that you need, there are a number of other things to consider in deciding on what variety of seed you want to use. Think about the amount of sunlight versus shade your lawn gets. Also think about foot traffic. Different varieties of grass are better suited to different levels of each. Choosing the right grass for your particular lawn will enable it to more effectively and naturally fight off diseases and pests without the need for chemicals.
2. Test Your Soil
Perhaps the most important step to take in using fertilizer is to test your soil first. Soil testing kits can be bought very cheaply and will tell you exactly what your specific soil needs. Once you know which nutrients are lacking and which nutrients are not, you can make a more informed decision about what variety of fertilizer you actually need for your lawn and you won’t be pumping excess nutrients into the environment.
3. Fertilize Organically
Organic fertilizers lead to healthier soil. They provide a variety of other beneficial nutrients that you simply won’t get with synthetic fertilizers. They also administer nutrients to your grass in a slower, more natural fashion, delivering only what your grass needs when it needs it. And with organic, you’re also avoiding all those unlisted and potentially harmful ingredients (like heavy metals) that are sometimes found in the synthetic alternatives.
4. Don’t Over-Fertilize
Many homeowners are conditioned to think they need to fertilize their lawns 3 to 4 times a year. They also have a tendency to apply excess amounts of fertilizer each time, leading to increased runoff and nutrient pollution in our watersheds. But do our lawns really need all these nutrients? The truth is that they don’t. Especially when you’re using organic fertilizers, a couple applications per year should be just the right amount.
5. Use Compost
Regular composting is one of the best natural ways for adding essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and many others to your soil. It is also good from a biological standpoint, adding organic matter to your soil that facilitates the growth of green, healthy grass.
6. Conserve Water
Your lawn doesn’t need as much water as you think. In fact, watering less often is actually good for your lawn, encouraging your grass to grow deeper roots and become stronger and more drought-resistant. A good rule of thumb is ensuring your lawn gets about 1 inch a week. When you water your lawn, do it early in the morning when the air is cooler so that you don’t lose water to evaporation. You’ll also find that applying compost will help the soil to retain water, meaning better absorption by your grass and less runoff.
7. Get Rid of the Gas Mower
Few people realize the extent of gas mower pollution. Emissions are worst during the summertime, when lawn mowers contribute a whopping 10% of all air pollution in the US. But don’t fret! There are some great alternatives – take reel lawn mowers for instance, which are powered by your own two feet. Other alternatives include solar-powered mowers (if you’re willing to shell out quite a bit of money) and plug-in electric mowers. But the reel mower is the all-around winner: carbon neutral, economical, and it even helps you stay in shape.
8. Leave the Clippings Behind
Use a mulching mower to add valuable nutrients from grass clippings right back into your soil. With all this organic matter and nitrogen that you’re reinvesting in your lawn, you won’t need to worry as much about fertilizing.
9. Find an Alternative to Pesticide
It is well-documented that pesticide-use can be a serious hazard to the environment. Many pesticides already exist at levels high enough to kill or cause defects among birds, fish, and other aquatic organisms. Finding alternatives to pesticides is therefore a wonderful way to go green with your lawn. One of the best natural ways for fighting pests is to introduce other insects that will feed on them: beneficial nematodes and ladybugs are great examples of good insects that will help you control pests on your lawn.
10. Ditch the Weedkiller - Grow a Thicker Lawn Instead
The best approach for fighting weeds is very simple: grow a thicker lawn. This will effectively crowd out the weeds so they have no room to grow. You can achieve a thicker lawn by overseeding, that is, by spreading seeds over the grass you already have. So try it out. A great time to do it is in the fall, or even now in the spring if your lawn is particularly thin.
You’ll find that with the right mindset and with a little bit of commitment, taking a green approach to lawn care can be a very rewarding experience. Give some of these steps a try and I’m sure you’ll soon agree. I appreciate the opportunity to share my thoughts with everyone and best of luck!
























Friday, March 1, 2013

Need to Fertilize–Do This First!


When should I fertilize? How much should I fertilize?  Which fertilizers should I use?  What do the numbers on fertilizer mean?  Many gardeners and homeowners will frantically apply fertilizer to the yard.  Or they will randomly throw fertilizer on the garden. The more the better. The sooner the better. If a little is good, more is better! 
confused
Whooow.  Back-up the horses! Take a deep breath, and have the soil tested. Don’t guess, get a test!

soil test
What a soil test will tell?   Soil tests determine the nutrients in the soil and levels of those nutrients.  If a nutrient is too high, the plants may suffer because they cannot take up or ‘bind’ other nutrient.  
Likewise, if a nutrient is too low in the soil, plant nutrition will not be adequate and the plant growth or crop from the plant will suffer.soil test dead plant
A soil testing lab is best suited to determine the nutrient needs of the soil.  The test results will indicate what needs to be added to the soil, and the amounts that should be added. 

So how do I get soil tested?

Soil test -  Steps for an accurate soil test.
1. Get a clean, dry container to carry with you into the garden. soil test in bucket
2.  With a clean trowel, soil probe,or auger and remove 6” – 8” deep of soil in 6 – 8 well-spaced sections of the area that is being tested.
  soil testing probesoil test diagram
3.  Deposit these 6 – 8 scoops into the container and mix them together.
4.   In a sample bag provided by the lab or a clean plastic sandwich bag, label the area of the garden on the bag.  This is important especially if more than one area is being tested.  (i.e. – lawn, perennial border, vegetable garden).
5. The lab I use, Spectrum Analytic has a form to be sent in with the soil sample.  They ask what the ‘crop’ is that will be growing in this area – and they have codes for such things as cool season turf, ornamentals, garden, fruit, perennials, roses, grapes, and others.  Be as specific as possible, to get the analysis that will enhance the soil requirements in your lawn or garden. Mail the sample by UPS or USPS.  I usually get a padded envelope to send the bag(s) of soil in along with the spec sheet(s) which can be downloaded online for most labs. 
Reading the results of a soil test.
The results are very easy to understand.  The results will tell you if you need to add any certain element, and the amount per 100 s/f, or 1000 s/f, or per acre.  Determining the space of your test area is a multiplication of the length times the width, in feet, for square feet. (i.e.  10’ x 30’ = 300 s/f).
images (5)
One other piece of information the soil test will tell is the soil pH.  This will be difficult to modify, but choosing plants that like the conditions will be happier.
When choosing the amendments to supplement the soil, take the soil analysis to the garden center with you.  Or advise your lawn care provider of the results.  Both resources will aid you in applying the needed nutrient for a successful lawn and garden.
Fees range from $15 – near $50, depending on the detailed analysis you choose.  Believe me, the cost of amendments that are not needed can cost a lot more. And randomly throwing fertilizer onto the soil could be doing more harm than good. Local extension offices and garden centers should be able to give a list of labs in your area.  Check with local universities also.
 fertilizer burn
It’s early spring, do the soil test now for a great growing season.