Pollinators, Predators, Parasites – Beneficial Insects

Beneficial Insects - What They Do 

The three classifications of  beneficial insects, Pollinators, Predators, and Parasites, defines the role each has and the method in which they survive.
Most of us are familiar with Pollinators.  Bees, butterflies, and wasps are vital to 80% of plants in the world.  If plants do not get pollinated, the species cannot reproduce. Life would fail on this planet as the food crops fail.




Pollinators need nectar, shelter, and water to survive. A supply of pollen and nectar are required for the sustainability of the pollinator populations.
 
Parasite insects are quite the creature.  This is a parasitic wasp as it seeks out a caterpillar in the garden
and deposits its eggs in it.
The larvae of the wasp emerge inside the caterpillar and eat it from the inside. 

The Predator insects are interesting in that in some species, the Predator seeks out other pests – whether it is in the larval stage or as an adult.  The most commonly known predator is the Lady beetle.  We probably recognize the
 
adult that is red with black spots .  But the larva is orange with black markings that resembles an alligator.  The larvae, as well as the adult, eat pests. I must say that I have seen this ‘bug’ and did not know what I was looking at.  (Probably smashed a few, too!)
 
Green Lacewing are quite dainty.  The adult feeds on pollen, nectar, and honeydew.

 However, the larvae

are quite aggressive predators as they seek out aphids.

Praying Mantis are general predators in the garden,  They eat anything, including beneficials - even the Lady Beetle.  Larvae have even been known to eat each other.


Minute Pirate Bugs are commonly mistaken for cinch bugs.  The adult and larvae prey on aphids, cinch bugs, thrips, whiteflies and spider mite, to name a few.  Minute Pirate Bugs are a natural predator to other pests that can damage corn crops, cotton, soybeans, and sorghum. 
Sucking mouth parts enable this bug to draw out fluids from its prey.

The Lady Beetles, the Green Lacewings, the Praying Mantis, and the Minute Pirate bug and be bought in the marketplace. The cocoon of the Praying  Mantis are shipped and placed about the garden before they hatch.

 Lady Beetle, Green Lacewings and Minute Pirate Bugs are shipped as eggs or live to release. 

One beneficial I have overlooked in my garden is the Ground Beetle.  Yes, I knew they were there – just turn over a stone, or move leaves.  But I did not know they enjoy a meal of grubs, caterpillars, fly maggots, slugs, snails, and even earthworms. 
 
This Assassin Bug uses piercing mouth parts to feed.  The front legs are designed to catch their prey.  Their bite on the hand of a handler can be painful so use caution. 
The Predatory Stink Bug indeed stinks.  Many species of Stink Bugs are in the environment, and they can be destructive when they suck plants.  There are a few, however, that are not such bad eggs – the Predatory Stink bug can eat beetle larvae, and caterpillars. 

Big Eyed Bugs and Damsel Bugs are two more I have underestimated as to their value.  Both adults and nymphs of the Big-Eyed bug feed on mites, aphids, and insect eggs.  The Damsel Bug uses its front legs to hold its prey which include, thrips, caterpillars, leafhoppers, and other soft-bodies insects.   Damsel Bug  Big Eyed Bug

Syrphid Flies – also known as hover flies – can be mistaken for bees, wasps, or hornets.  Adults feed on pollen, nectar, and aphid honeydew which they use for good egg maturation.  Females will lay hundreds of eggs in aphid colonies.  Larvae  have piercing, sucking mouths, and can eat hundreds of aphids. Here we see hover fly larvae on a cabbage leaf with the larvae of the cabbage beetle.  What looks like a major worm infestation is really one (the hover fly) eating the other (the cabbage worm). 

Reaching for an insecticide at this time would kill both – with the biodiversity of the insects in your garden leaning towards an unbalanced condition.  Maintaining this balance is a natural, albeit a slow, process.  Using even an organic insecticide will kill the bad, as well as the good bugs.  Being aware of the beneficial insects is a good start in protecting our environment.  I know I think twice about dousing the garden with products that many harm. 
Plant good http://gardeningnaturallywithclaudia.blogspot.com/2013/01/companion-plantsbenefits-in-garden.html that will repel insects, or bring in good insects to your landscape. Use fabric to cover rows, and keep the larval state of insects off your crops.  Just be sure to remove the cover so Pollinators can reach the blossoms where they  will ensure you a good crop or a source of seed. 

So,  Pollinators, Predators, and Parasites  - get to know these Beneficial insects in your garden.  

Pest Management for the Home and Garden

What is IPM - Integrated Pest Management ? 

Most times the idea of a pest is a bug that is not wanted -  the ants that invade our kitchens, or the flies that speckle the windows. However, the broad meaning of pest can include, insects, weeds, and diseases.
Integrated Pest Management is the application of the decisions we make to determine the steps we will take to insure the pests are less intrusive. The options are Prevention, Suppression, and Eradication.
Varying degrees of intrusion can indeed be problematic, but some pests are just doing what pests do, -eat, procreate, and die.



Pest Management can be classified into four categories – 1) biological controls, 2) chemical controls, 3) cultural controls, and 4) legal controls.  Chemical pesticides are not my remedy of choice, so my focus will feature biological and cultural control methods.

The Biological Controls methods are divided into three approaches, - 1) classical, 2) augmentation, and 3) natural.  Classical biological approach is to find and use a natural enemy of the pest.  If a pest has been imported, either on purpose or accidentally to an area, the idea is to go to the area of origin and find out what kept the pest in check.

 Augmentation methods are to release large quantities of natural enemies.
These cocoons are praying mantis.
Since these insects are mobile, the release in your garden does not guarantee they will stay to chow down your pests.

Other biological controls are available in the marketplace and are natural.   Bt (Bacillus theringiensis) is a toxin to many caterpillars.  The solution is sprayed on foliage and kills the eating caterpillars within a few days. This Bt is effective on bag worms found on evergreens.



Milky Spore is another bacteria that is put into lawns.  Larvae of Japanese Beetles, the white grub, consume this substance when they are eating roots of turf.
   
 
Cultural Controls for pest are available, but the success of them takes some planning.
 
1)  Use plants that have a natural pest resistance.  Native plants have overcome many of the diseases and insects in the area.  This survival has inbred this immunity into many wonderful plants that pests just don’t like.
2)  Choose plants appropriate to your hardiness zone.  This past year the hardiness maps have been redrawn, and many of our areas have changed. Plant hardiness insures less stress from unfamiliar temperatures. Less stress, the better able for your plant to withstand insect and disease damage.

3) Plant in the right place. Consider shade, soil fertility, pH, and drainage before you choose a plant.  Again, the less stress the healthier your garden.

4) Choose healthy plants from the garden center.   Check the soil in the container.  Is it loose, moist?  Gently pull root ball from container – are the roots full and white, or are they dry and brown?  Do the leaves have insect holes, or are the leaves dry, brittle, or yellow?  Only take home good quality plants.  If you buy from a catalog, apply the same standards and send poor looking plants back.

Roots are white, but need to be loosened, gently before planting.

These tomato leaves are suffering. They are curled and pale.  Leave this plant at the garden center.
 

Integrated Pest Management or IPM decisions are not difficult if you know your garden and plan for the fact that pests are out there.  How radical of a response you give the pests can depend on several things.  1) Can I live with this?  2) Can the plant live with this?  And 3) is the remedy worse than the problem?

What boundaries have you placed on pests in your garden?