Our Lawn Renovation

Another Phase in the Backyard Renovation

Another section of our backyard is getting a face lift   The timing for the lawn renovation is getting critical since the fall planting time is quickly coming to a close.

In our Zone 6 garden, grass seed needs to be planted before September 15.  The seed needs to have time to germinate and the roots need to be well established before a killing freeze.  Normally, here we have a first frost in early October, and the soil temps really drop at that time.   
 As the lawn renovation started, we needed to remove a large area of nimblewill.  That process took a couple of weeks.  The grassy weed really had spread, and we used a non-selective herbicide. 




Here the pathway got a top dressing of topsoil.  This is the base for the seed.  Loose soil is vital for the seed to take root.  Hard compacted areas will not give the seed roots any foundation. 




The seed went down, and we even over seeded the previously seeded areas that were a little thin. 



The next step in the lawn renovation today was to apply an organic fertilizer.  The N-P-K was 5-3-4, and was a combination of bone meal and soybean meal, and compost. 



This organic fertilizer is OMRI listed©. The Organic Materials Review Institute analyzes products that manufacturers submit.  The national organic standards must be met in the creation of the products, and if they meet these standards, the OMRI© label is applied.
 
Generally a three year history of the ingredients is inspected.  For those three years, the fields must not have any chemical herbicides, insecticides, or fertilizers.

The same goes for meat products.  Livestock must not have been fed anything but organic feeds, to qualify as organic. 



The safety of this organic fertilizer is evident in the safe handling of the grain.  There is no strong chemical odor, and the family pets are not going to be harmed if they wander around in the planting area.
  
The final step in today’s lawn renovation, was to water the seed.  This moisture will be maintained 2 – 3 times a day until the grass has been mowed at least twice.
 


These areas were the first seeded in the lawn renovation.  As shown, the grass seed here is starting to fill in.

The garden has made a major transformation in our efforts to scale down the work the garden was requiring.  Thanks for stopping by today. 
What projects are you doing in your yard? 

Nimblewill – Grassy Perennial Weed

Difficult Grassy Weed in the Landscape

As the garden renovations continue in my yard, the lawn has to be renewed too.  The problem is the grassy perennial weed know as nimblewill.  This lawn weed is quite at home in moist, shady locations, but it can tolerate sunny conditions too. 
The plant produces thousands of seeds, and mowing will assist in the spread of this warm season weed.  As this clump grows, the stolons that rest on soil, will root and produce another plant.

Nimblewill does not last in cool temperatures. As the stems and stolons die in the fall, patches of this lawn weed will appear as brown or tan sections in the grass.

Pulling nimblewill is fairly easy, as the roots are shallow.  However, broadleaf weed killers have no effect on this grassy weed.  The active ingredient in Roundup®, glyphosate, is effective. But glyphosate will kill anything it is sprayed on, including your prize perennials or ‘good grass’.  A new product call Tenacity, a herbicide by Syngenta, has been approved for use on cool season lawns.  Tenacity's active ingredient is mesotrione and can control 40 weeds, both grassy types and broadleaf types. 

Due to the wide spread of nimblewill in our lawn, we felt pulling it or even scraping it out was more than we could handle.  So hubby brought out the Roundup® , a non-selective herbicide, and these brown patches are evidence of its effectiveness.  (Yes, this was all nimblewill!)

Nimblewill had become a real eyesore in our lawn. Given a few years of taking over large parts of the yard, this grassy weed had to go.  Had we taken steps earlier, we may have been able to simply pull the small patches. 
As an organic gardener, I have relied on cultural methods to control weeds and insects in the garden.  So I’m really paying for ignoring the spread of nimblewill over the last few years. Before I completely lose any credibility I  have gained as an organic gardener, let me describe the cultural prevention methods and maintenance that will lessen the need for harsh chemicals.
Moist, shady locations are ideal for nimblewill. Removing the moisture by regrading or installing tiles will go a long way to reduce the dampness. Applying organic materials like organic fertilizers or compost to loosen the soil will help to absorb moisture better.



Shade can be reduced by limbing up trees to allow more sun to penetrate the area so soils can dry out.


Lawns that are thick will make weed seeds more difficult to take hold.  Feeding with organic fertilizers and watering deeply are two keys to a healthy lawn. 

Our next step will be to rake in a layer of compost, and then use the same grass seed blend we used on the bare areas. (Here the seed has started to sprout, and is filling in well.)

Nimblewill has been here too long, and I’m happy at its demise. 
Do you have any lawn problems?  Share your conflict with us.  Thanks.

Organic Gardening – The Pros and Cons

Is Organic Gardening Right for You?

Many are reluctant to try Organic Gardening. Here are some insights to help you decide what to do in your garden on the Pros and Cons of Organic Gardening.  So I attempted to address some concerns of organic methods gardening.

Cons of Organic Gardening
Organics work slowly
Organics may initially be more expensive
Organics have limits on insects and weeds
Let’s face it, we, as a society, expect quick and easy solutions in our lives. From the mini-marts that offer quick-in, quick-out service to the microwaveable meals we turn to on a busy day.
Organic gardening is NOT ‘quick’, and ‘easy’ may just be a mind-set that we can accept. 
 
Pros of Organic Gardening
Organics work slowly
Organics feed the soil

Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from insects and diseases
Pesticides degrade in soil naturally

 
Cons of Chemicals in Gardening
Chemicals kill soil organisms
Chemicals leach into soil
Chemicals wash into watershed
Chemical vapors cause illness

Chemical Fertilizers are not strictly regulated. Read the labels and ask what makes up the ‘Other or Inert Ingredients” ? Check out these concerns:
Environmentally polluting companies are recycling - (Industrial waste!)
Diverting millions of pounds of toxic industrial waste from expensive EPA disposal facilities to fertilizer production facilities
Chemicals such as lead, cadmium, dioxin, mercury have been spread across millions of acres of farmland
Stay in ground for long, long time –(Heavy metals)
Uptake into crops for human and animal consumption
 
 
Pros of Chemical in Gardening
Chemicals are fast acting
Chemicals are easy to apply
Chemicals are relatively inexpensive


Downside of Organic Gardening
Occasional Weeds – (Do we really need to spray herbicides on everything, when we can dig out the few weeds present?)
Plants May Show Insect Damage - (Ask - ‘Is this insects harming the plant or causing my crop to fail?  If the answer is ‘not really’, why use harmful chemicals?)


Building Good Soil Takes Time  - ( Rebuilding the microbe populations will take some time – usually a full season of healthy organics will provide a visible improvement in the soil.) 

This photo of soil is after one year of adding compost and organic fertilizers – the photo on the right, was before any care.  Note, the root systems are 8” in the good soil, hardly visible in the anemic soil.

These are the down sides of organic gardening:  More work, more weeds, more maintenance, more expensive, more mulching, no quick fixes.

With these elements of ‘more’, expense of organic gardening can initially be higher than using chemicals.  Here are a few of the factors that cause the ‘seemingly’ higher prices. 
Winchester Gardens
For an “organic” product to be labeled such, the ingredients have to be chemical free for three years.  Farmers have to use organic methods for three years to have the field certified.  Then the crops can be ‘organic’.  Feed to animals must be feed only organic products to pass as organic, and range fed livestock can only feed on pastures that have had no chemicals applied – again that three year timing.
Weeds must be addressed for any crop.  The hand cultivation of weeds in the gardens is expensive.  Insects take their toll on corps, and must be dealt with, also. 
 
Downside of Chemicals
PESTICIDES
◦Homeowners use 10X more per acre than farmers
◦Spend $67 M /year on lawns
◦60-70 M birds are poisoned/year
◦Less than 1% of half million plants and animals are pests

Fruits and vegetables soak up these chemicals. However, the USDA's own tests show that most non-organic produce contain residual pesticides even after washing. The long term effects of consuming these pesticides has not been sufficiently studied, but they can't be good for you.


Lawn care chemicals get washed into our gutters, and proceed into our streams, rivers and lakes. 
Are pesticides really necessary? NO - Pesticides kill bad and GOOD bugs. Misuse of pesticides can cause pollinator decline, which is a food supply issue - fruit trees, berries, tomatoes all need to be pollinated to produce our food. Chemical applications of pesticides poison non-target organisms in the environment and possibly increase chances to humans of serious illness.

Health care issues of pesticides are many. 
Of 30 commonly used lawn pesticides -
19 are linked with cancer or carcinogenicity
13 are linked with birth defects
21 are linked with reproductive effects
26 are linked with liver or kidney damage
15 are linked with neurotoxicity
11 are linked with disruption of the endocrine (hormonal) system 

Can these ‘expensive’ issues offset the ‘expense’ of organic products?

Of course, I'm biased on this issue, but I hope I have given you some incentive to, at least, reduce the use of chemicals in your garden and yard. 

Winchester Gardens products were donated to me in return for a product review.  Check out their web site at http://wgardens.com/products/category/53-fertilizers.aspx

Five Steps to a Healthy Lawn

Lush Lawns Don't Just Happen

Every year I get questions on how to get that deep green, thick lawn using organic methods.  Some folks think that 'organic' means letting nature do her thing, while not attending to any maintenance of the lawn. Others want instant results to the barest of essential grooming. Residential landscaping with turf is lovely when cared for appropriately.  Let me describe how to achieve a good looking, healthy lawn.

#1  Compaction of soil is the most detrimental condition in a lawn.  Areas that get a lot of foot traffic near walks and drives are most susceptible to compaction. If the children play on the grass, or the postal carrier walks across the lawn every day, compaction is bound to happen.  Walking on wet grass can add to the problem by pushing out air and water from soil.  Grass roots are dense, but no air, no water,.... the grass will not thrive.

Core aeration is an easy method to open up the root zone of the yard.  I prefer to have the core removed, as opposed to just pushing in pins into the soil.  By removing  the core, air and water can be placed right at the roots. I recommend raking in a 1/4" layer of compost as the second step to the aeration.  The compost has microorganisms that will draw nutrients right into the root zone.  The opening left by the plugs will allow water to seep into the root area as well. 

Compost allows the soil to drain while keeping moisture in the soil for a more drought tolerant lawn. If spreading compost is not available, an organic fertilizer of 8-3-3 or similar is also a good option. Either compost or organic fertilizer will add organic matter to the soil to feed the microorganisms for a healthy lawn. 

#2  Having a thick turf can be as easy as over-seeding.  The proper seed is important to this step.  I suggest a seed that is appropriate for your conditions.  Do you have a full sun area, a steep incline, or wish to reduce water needs?  The turf industry can offer you a custom seed for your area.

 This winter season is a good time to over seed fairly simply.  Dormant seeding, as this process is called, works well on frozen soil, or even a snow cover. Simply sow seed onto the yard with either a drop spreader or a broadcast applicator.  The freezing and thawing of the soil over the next few months will allow the seed to be worked into the soil.  Then, when temperatures are right, the seed will grow and thicken up your yard.  Thicker turf is going to look better and, depending on the conditions, more weed resistance and drought tolerant.

#3  Thatch is the mat of grass shafts, roots above the soil line, and dead organic matter.  This raking will open the soil up to allow rain to soak into the soil and nutrients to become available to the root system.  I believe that a good liquid organic solution will help degrade that thatch and keep a thick layer from building up.  A kelp or fish fertilizer can be used in a hose end sprayer even in the hot summer months.  The solution will not burn and, along with breaking down the thatch, your lawn will get a good drink of N for a nice green lawn. 

#4  Mow high - long blades of grass can a) shade weed seeds.  b) hold moisture, and c) optimize photosynthesis.  If more that one third of the blade is removed at once, the blade of grass is stressed and will wilt.  Taller grass will minimize weed seed germination as well. 

#5  Water Deeply.  Deep watering draws the roots down into the soil. More moisture is available deeper into the ground, and the grass will not wilt as easily in periods of little rain.  Water less often.  Short, frequent waterings (wettings) do not allow the root systems to grow deeply.  One inch of rain a week, for most turf allows the roots to remain moist without the contant watering.  Usually about 45 minutes is enough water to get soil moist about 4 inches deep.

Lawn care does not have to take hours every weekend.  Lawn care does not have to be expensive. A lawn you can be proud of is the ultimate reward.  Enjoy, and thanks for stopping by.

  

Organic Lawn Care for Fall

Steps to Maintain an Organic Lawn

The Five Rivers MetroParks in the Dayton area offered a full day of talks at the Cox Arboretum Sunday on Gardening in Ohio.  I was honored to present two programs on Organic Fertilizers and Organic Lawn Care.  With the summer we have had here in SW Ohio, we had a lot to talk about. With the extreme heat of over 20 days over 90 degrees F, and no measurable rain for eight weeks or more, our lawns really need some tender loving care. So let me summarize the steps needed to help our lawns rebound from the summer.  1.  If you cannot do anything else, apply compost to your lawn and rake it in to a depth of 1/2 “.  The organic material will build your soil, and permit the roots of your turf to get nutrients, air and water. 
2.  Over seeding your lawn will help thicken it, and  fill in bare spots.  Rake loose the dead grass to allow the seed to make contact with the soil.  Again, spread compost lightly over the seed and keep watered.  Grass seed providers are marketing seed for any variety of conditions you may have in your yard.  From drought tolerant, to insect and disease resistant, seed for sunny areas, seed for shady areas.  Check local suppliers to get a seed that matches your needs 
3.  Apply an organic fertilizer.  These come in granular and liquid form.  The slow release nutrients will release food over a longer period of time compared to chemical applications.  Chemical fertilizers can give a fast green up, but leave the root zone with no long term benefits.  Chemicals can dangerously impact the microorganism colonies in the soil, repel earthworms and harm the soil structure. 
4.  Mow high.  Most turf experts are recommending a 3 1/2” to 4” tall cutting.  Taller grass blades have deeper root systems.  Deeper roots can take up more moisture helping grass to resist drought.  Taller grass will also shade the soil.  This shading will protect the soil surface from drying out.  Weed seeds will also be shaded, and reduce weed seed germination. 
5.  Water deeply.  Reduce water usage by eliminating frequent sprinkling, and opt for longer sessions of watering.  Check you soil moisture after watering by inserting a trowel into grass.  Moisture should reach about 4” deep. 

6.  Mulch grass clippings and leaves.  The is great organic matter and your lawn will only benefit from the added nutrition.  Grass clipping do not create thatch.  Clippings actually increase worm activity and worms help aerate the soil, opening up the root zone to nutrients, air, and water.
7.   Stay on top of weeds.  Do not let weeds to go to seed.  The battle is half over by eliminating the source of future generations of weeds.  Remove weeds from the lawn.  If weeds are few,  dig them out.  I also recommend an organic herbicide such as 20% Horticultural Vinegar or a product like ‘BurnOut’.  This clove based product will kill any vegetation it lands on, so take care to target only weeds.  
        

By mowing high, watering deeply, and adding organic material to your lawn, you can have a great looking, healthy lawn. 

How did your lawn hold up this summer?  Let us know what worked for you and express any concerns you may have.  Claudia