Showing posts with label slugs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label slugs. Show all posts

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Pollinators, Predators, Parasites – Beneficial Insects


Beneficial Insects - What They Do 


The three classifications of  beneficial insects, Pollinators, Predators, and Parasites, defines the role each has and the method in which they survive.
Most of us are familiar with Pollinators.  Bees, butterflies, and wasps are vital to 80% of plants in the world.  If plants do not get pollinated, the species cannot reproduce. Life would fail on this planet as the food crops fail.


honey bee

Pollinators need nectar, shelter, and water to survive. A supply of pollen and nectar are required for the sustainability of the pollinator populations.
 
Parasite insects are quite the creature.  This is a parasitic wasp as it seeks out a caterpillar in the garden
and deposits its eggs in it. wasp laying eggs caterpillar images (1)
The larvae of the wasp emerge inside the caterpillar and eat it from the inside. 

The Predator insects are interesting in that in some species, the Predator seeks out other pests – whether it is in the larval stage or as an adult.  The most commonly known predator is the Lady beetle.  We probably recognize the
 ladybug life cycle
adult that is red with black spots .  But the larva is orange with black markings that resembles an alligator.  The larvae, as well as the adult, eat pests. I must say that I have seen this ‘bug’ and did not know what I was looking at.  (Probably smashed a few, too!)
 
Green Lacewing are quite dainty.  The adult feeds on pollen, nectar, and honeydew.

 However, the larvae

are quite aggressive predators as they seek out aphids.green lacewing life cycle

Praying Mantis are general predators in the garden,  They eat anything, including beneficials - even the Lady Beetle.  Larvae have even been known to eat each other.
praying mantis

Minute Pirate Bugs are commonly mistaken for cinch bugs.  The adult and larvae prey on aphids, cinch bugs, thrips, whiteflies and spider mite, to name a few.  Minute Pirate Bugs are a natural predator to other pests that can damage corn crops, cotton, soybeans, and sorghum.  minute pirate bug life cycle
Sucking mouth parts enable this bug to draw out fluids from its prey.

The Lady Beetles, the Green Lacewings, the Praying Mantis, and the Minute Pirate bug and be bought in the marketplace. The cocoon of the Praying  Mantis are shipped and placed about the garden before they hatch.

 Lady Beetle, Green Lacewings and Minute Pirate Bugs are shipped as eggs or live to release.  images (2) images (3)

One beneficial I have overlooked in my garden is the Ground Beetle.  Yes, I knew they were there – just turn over a stone, or move leaves.  But I did not know they enjoy a meal of grubs, caterpillars, fly maggots, slugs, snails, and even earthworms. 
ground beetle-scarites 
assassin_bigdan (1) This Assassin Bug uses piercing mouth parts to feed.  The front legs are designed to catch their prey.  Their bite on the hand of a handler can be painful so use caution. 
predatory stink bug The Predatory Stink Bug indeed stinks.  Many species of Stink Bugs are in the environment, and they can be destructive when they suck plants.  There are a few, however, that are not such bad eggs – the Predatory Stink bug can eat beetle larvae, and caterpillars. 

Big Eyed Bugs and Damsel Bugs are two more I have underestimated as to their value.  Both adults and nymphs of the Big-Eyed bug feed on mites, aphids, and insect eggs.  The Damsel Bug uses its front legs to hold its prey which include, thrips, caterpillars, leafhoppers, and other soft-bodies insects.   damsel bug Damsel Bug big-eyed bug Big Eyed Bug

Syrphid Flies – also known as hover flies – can be mistaken for bees, wasps, or hornets.  Adults feed on pollen, nectar, and aphid honeydew which they use for good egg maturation.  Females will lay hundreds of eggs in aphid colonies.  Larvae  have piercing, sucking mouths, and can eat hundreds of aphids. hoverfly hoverfly larvae with cabbage worms Here we see hover fly larvae on a cabbage leaf with the larvae of the cabbage beetle.  What looks like a major worm infestation is really one (the hover fly) eating the other (the cabbage worm). 

Reaching for an insecticide at this time would kill both – with the biodiversity of the insects in your garden leaning towards an unbalanced condition.  Maintaining this balance is a natural, albeit a slow, process.  Using even an organic insecticide will kill the bad, as well as the good bugs.  Being aware of the beneficial insects is a good start in protecting our environment.  I know I think twice about dousing the garden with products that many harm. 
Plant good http://gardeningnaturallywithclaudia.blogspot.com/2013/01/companion-plantsbenefits-in-garden.html that will repel insects, or bring in good insects to your landscape. Use fabric to cover rows, and keep the larval state of insects off your crops.  Just be sure to remove the cover so Pollinators can reach the blossoms where they  will ensure you a good crop or a source of seed. 

So,  Pollinators, Predators, and Parasites  - get to know these Beneficial insects in your garden.  

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Fall Cleanup



Lawn and Garden Preparations for Winter


Fall cleanup for me is directly connected to the weather.  So taking advantage of the sixty degree days has left me with no excuses.  So yesterday, I started the lawn cleanup.


The Little Leaf Linden still has tons of leaves to drop, but the Sycamore, American Planetree  in the back has very large, heavy leaves.  I raked all the perennial beds, pulling the leaves into the grass. I pay particular attention to the Hosta beds because overwintering slugs will lay eggs at or near the crown of each plant.  I have had damage from slugs as early as April when I neglected this part of the cleanup.


The mower mulched the dry leaves well, leaving only ground up organic matter to give the soil a long lasting source of nutrition.
 I last fertilized the lawn in October with a liquid organic spray.  With that feeding and now the mulched leaves, the grass will survive the stress of winter, and grow thick and lush in the spring.

If your grass is still growing, continue to mow.  The over winter length should be about an inch shorter than you mowed in the summer, or approximately 2".


As the rest of the trees drop their 'gift', I will again use the mower to aid in the cleanup.  However, I will use the bag attachment to gather the mulched leaves and grass clipping.  These I will sprinkle over the perennial beds.  This organic material will decompose (nearly) by spring, and will enhance the soils microorganisms and create loose soil that is alive and well. 

This next part of my fall cleanup may sound like I'm a lazy gardener. (Isn't that an oxymoron?)  When in fact I justify leaving the garden pretty much intact as 'that's the way Mother Nature gardens!'  The winter interest
is marvelous and extends the garden another season.

The final fall cleanup chore that is literally calling me out today, is removing the plant stems and food debris from the vegetable garden.  This will go into the compost pile.  Leaving tomatoes or other foods on the ground over winter will encourage diseases and draw animals.  With the vegetable garden cleared, I will have another spot to spread the bagged mulched leaves. 


So, fall cleanup for me is almost complete.  The lawn is fed, the hosta garden is clear, and the coneflowers, globe thistle, and black-eye susans will greet me throughout the dreary days to come, and I will smile.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Insects and Disease In the Garden


INSECT AND DISEASE CONTROLS FOR THE GARDEN


As an organic gardener, I like to remind myself that I’m looking for insect control, not insect eradication. If the plant health is not in jeopardy, or there is no huge crop loss, I will choose these remedies before any other.

Insecticides will kill off beneficial insects too.


Cabbage worms - Use self-rising flour from your pantry.

Put flour into a paper bag and poke holes in the bottom. Sprinkle over plants in early morning when worms are actively eating. As the temperature rises, the ‘self-rising’ flour will swell the worm!!




Slugs - A shallow lid with beer placed under vulnerable plants will lure slug in – and they won’t come out!

A half and half mixture of ammonia and water sprayed on slugs will kill the slugs and the ammonia will convert into nitrogen which your plants can use!

Mix One cup coffee (strong) to 10 parts water and spray around base of plants and over the leaves. The caffeine is a killer!



Root crop and bad bugs. Cut a potato in quarters and bury pieces around root crops such as carrots, and radishes. The bad bugs will go toward the potato and you can remove the bug infested potato in a few weeks. (To easily find potatoes, inset a skewer and let top remain above soil level)


Eggs of squash bug

Squash bugs are difficult to control. Clear any debris from planting area before planting. Use a mulch of newspapers and hay and cover bed tightly with row cloths. Remove before female blossoms appear for pollination to occur.

Squash Bug


Diatomaceous earth and neem oil have some effect on this pest.

Some companion plants for squash are catnip, tansy, radishes, marigolds, nasturtiums, and mint.

 Tansy


Tomato Caterpillar




Remove these by hand (gloved) and give cardinals a tasty treat!
This is the way nature takes care of its own.

White fly infestation on cabbage leaf, with hover fly eggs, and hover fly larvae chowing down – not on the cabbage, the white fly!

Hover fly
The Hover fly lays its eggs on plants. When the larvae hatch, the larvae feast on hundreds of aphids a day.

Remember, insecticides kill all bugs.



Diseases on Plants and Remedies


Fungicide/Insecticide Remedies

3 T baking soda

2 T Murphy Soap

2 T Canola oil

2 T White Vinegar

2 Gal. warm water
Mix all ingredients and apply with a spray dispenser until foliage is completely wet. Do not spray on bright sunny days, as sunlight can burn leaves


Blossom end rot on tomatoes  
.(An organic fertilizer of calcium nitrate may be added to limit blossom end rot in small gardens)

Consider a strict watering regiment in the vegetable garden to eliminate some over and under watering problems such as blossom end rot.

Effective Watering Practices
Water plants twice a week: strawberries, lettuce,
Onions broccoli, cauliflower, carrots and peas


Water once a week: peppers, beans, corn, squash, cucumbers and eggplant


Water once every two weeks: Tomatoes and melons

To prevent cracking, when plants are really producing a lot of fruit, increase watering of tomatoes to once a week.



Fungicide for Tomatoes
1 tsp baking soda
1 T vegetable oil

1 T dishwashing soap

1 Gal water

Mix all ingredients well. Apply with a spray dispenser until foliage is completely wet.

All Purpose Insect Spray

1 garlic bulb

1 T cayenne pepper

1 QT water

1 T liquid hand soap

1 small onion

Chop garlic and onion. Add cayenne pepper and water. Steep 1 hour. Add soap. Spray on plants. Solution may be stored in refrigerator for 1 week.

Spider Mites
Remedy

One Ounce Salt in One Gallon Water
Dissolve salt and spray.


Chewing/Sucking insects, Mildew, Leaf Spot, Rust, Spore Disease
(This one is great!)

3 cloves garlic
1 medium onion

1 tsp HOT pepper

1 quart water

Steep in water for 10 minutes and strain out solid particles. Solution may be diluted 1:4 with water. Spray onto plants.
Solution for aphids, asparagus larvae, black spot and scale insects



Steep 10 tomato leaves (chopped) and 1 onion (chopped) in ½ Cup of alcohol for one hour. Apply with a swab to insects.



Scale infestation

These pest seem to be able to invade and destroy our gardens.  Just remember that random spraying with pesticides may actually increase the problem.  Even these home-made remedies can't distinguish 'good' bugs from 'bad' bugs. 



Green Lace Wings, are a beneficial.  They eat eggs and larvae of insects.  Invite birds to your garden to help control insects.  And hand picking bugs can go a long way to keep damage of plant material to a minimum.

Plants that are spaced so that air can move around the leaves will reduce disease. Remove debris to prevent soil borne illnesses from splashing back onto plants.  

Some simple maintenance can bring in a bounty of fresh produce that is free from chemicals and looks great.!

Thanks for visiting today.  What homemade remedies you have used? I'd love to hear from you.