Three Steps in Planning A Garden–Part 3

Choosing the Plants

I've used this slide before, and will again now.  Choosing plants for your new garden space, is going to take some information from the plant to the gardener. 

The label gives the gardener all the information needed to take this plant home, and successfully adopt its new location.
The name of the plant, of course, is given -  both the common names, and the botanical name.  The grower has given the gardener a description of the plant. The colors of the foliage and blossoms are listed in case the plant is not blooming at the time of purchase.
The mature size in height and width are important so the plant is spaced properly.  Too close of placement, and the constant pruning will be tedious.  If the plant is too small at maturity, it will look awkward and get lost in the landscape. 


The soil is probably the most important consideration to choosing a plant for the garden.  In Step 2, the site was diagnosed.  The moisture, or dryness has been determined. Some plants will thrive with wet soil, some will drown.
Clethera, and astilbe need moist soil. 
Areas beneath a large tree canopy will be dry.  This big root geranium never disappoints me.

The sunniness or shadiness of the location has been observed.  ‘Part shade’ preference for the azalea means it will do best in less than a ‘full sun’ location.  Full sun is six hours or more per day.  Part shade is considered to be when the sun is available less than 4 hours per day.
This climbing hydrangea does well in this shady part of my garden.
Know the pH of the soil. The soil test will determine of the soil is acid or alkaline. This distinction is important.

Steps to take a soil test. (In case this step was skipped!)
1)Take a small spoon size scoop of soil from six or eight different spots in the area to be planted.   2)  Combine in a clean container.  3)  Following the instructions of the soil tester, take a reading. 

Soil with a reading below 7 is considered acid.  Seven is neutral.   Numbers above 7 are alkaline. 
The plant tag above states that the azalea needs acidic soil.  If the soil test indicates the soil is alkaline, this azalea will struggle and will not thrive. 
Vegetable gardens will need an acid site, as do most fruits.  Blueberries, cranberries, and strawberries all need pH reading at or below 6.5. 
The Zone limits for plants being considering for the garden is vital for survival of the plant.  When a zone is stated, that is the coldest climate in which the plant will survive. If  the garden zone is 6, plants that are hardy to zone 7 will probably freeze. 


I’ve posted these two evergreens – both are junipers, but as shown, they are certainly different.  This distinction is important for when a low grower is called for in the landscape, the garden will have a completely different look if the tall juniper is installed. Read the label or plant description to avoid this problem.

Choosing the right plant, and putting it in the right place will be the difference in a successful garden or a garden that disappoints.
The choices of plants is so personal.   Many varieties of plants are available and make each gardener’s space unique.
Trees or shrubs are available.  Large trees, or understory trees are both options. Understory trees are usually found under the canopy of larger trees in the forest, and their mature height is shorter – some about 15 – 20 feet tall.
Flowering trees or flowering shrubs can be beautiful. 


Leaf shapes and colors are endless.  This is the leaf of the ginko tree, which also has great fall color.



The yellow blooms of the golden rain tree is an unexpected splash of color in summer.



Evergreen plants are, in my opinion, the backbone of the landscape.  The seasons come and go, but the evergreen plant holds up even in the cold of winter.
 


Perennials get a lot of attention by gardeners.  They grow and bloom in their time, and go dormant in winter, and grow again, season after season.  What more could a gardener ask for?  Choosing perennials for the new garden space is fun and the combinations are endless.  Most perennials bloom once during the season, and then they are sitting looking forward to next year.  So consider foliage shapes, and colors, as these will be the feature most of the time. 
Finally, seasonal color is easy to achieve by planting annuals each year. Again, choose plants for the sun or   shade. Consider plants that do well in wet or dry situations. 


Calabrachoa, coleus, and impatiens pictured here are full of color and last all summer.

1) Envision the Space, 2) Prepare the Space, and 3) Choosing the Plants - Taking these three steps when planning a new garden space, will have the project proceed without major missteps.  Relax and enjoy the new space.
In upcoming posts, I plan to give more details on picking the right plant for the right place. I’ll discuss features of plants and where they would like to be in the garden.
Thanks for stopping by today.  I hope you enjoy your gardening experience. 

Pest Management for the Home and Garden

What is IPM - Integrated Pest Management ? 

Most times the idea of a pest is a bug that is not wanted -  the ants that invade our kitchens, or the flies that speckle the windows. However, the broad meaning of pest can include, insects, weeds, and diseases.
Integrated Pest Management is the application of the decisions we make to determine the steps we will take to insure the pests are less intrusive. The options are Prevention, Suppression, and Eradication.
Varying degrees of intrusion can indeed be problematic, but some pests are just doing what pests do, -eat, procreate, and die.



Pest Management can be classified into four categories – 1) biological controls, 2) chemical controls, 3) cultural controls, and 4) legal controls.  Chemical pesticides are not my remedy of choice, so my focus will feature biological and cultural control methods.

The Biological Controls methods are divided into three approaches, - 1) classical, 2) augmentation, and 3) natural.  Classical biological approach is to find and use a natural enemy of the pest.  If a pest has been imported, either on purpose or accidentally to an area, the idea is to go to the area of origin and find out what kept the pest in check.

 Augmentation methods are to release large quantities of natural enemies.
These cocoons are praying mantis.
Since these insects are mobile, the release in your garden does not guarantee they will stay to chow down your pests.

Other biological controls are available in the marketplace and are natural.   Bt (Bacillus theringiensis) is a toxin to many caterpillars.  The solution is sprayed on foliage and kills the eating caterpillars within a few days. This Bt is effective on bag worms found on evergreens.



Milky Spore is another bacteria that is put into lawns.  Larvae of Japanese Beetles, the white grub, consume this substance when they are eating roots of turf.
   
 
Cultural Controls for pest are available, but the success of them takes some planning.
 
1)  Use plants that have a natural pest resistance.  Native plants have overcome many of the diseases and insects in the area.  This survival has inbred this immunity into many wonderful plants that pests just don’t like.
2)  Choose plants appropriate to your hardiness zone.  This past year the hardiness maps have been redrawn, and many of our areas have changed. Plant hardiness insures less stress from unfamiliar temperatures. Less stress, the better able for your plant to withstand insect and disease damage.

3) Plant in the right place. Consider shade, soil fertility, pH, and drainage before you choose a plant.  Again, the less stress the healthier your garden.

4) Choose healthy plants from the garden center.   Check the soil in the container.  Is it loose, moist?  Gently pull root ball from container – are the roots full and white, or are they dry and brown?  Do the leaves have insect holes, or are the leaves dry, brittle, or yellow?  Only take home good quality plants.  If you buy from a catalog, apply the same standards and send poor looking plants back.

Roots are white, but need to be loosened, gently before planting.

These tomato leaves are suffering. They are curled and pale.  Leave this plant at the garden center.
 

Integrated Pest Management or IPM decisions are not difficult if you know your garden and plan for the fact that pests are out there.  How radical of a response you give the pests can depend on several things.  1) Can I live with this?  2) Can the plant live with this?  And 3) is the remedy worse than the problem?

What boundaries have you placed on pests in your garden?

How to Read Plant Labels - Guidelines for Planting

Every industry has words that pertain to that field - 'missing' means something specific to an auto mechanic;  'temp' to a health care professional means something quite different than 'temp' means to employment agency.

I have tried to get into the texting world with my grand kids.  I frequently get 'lots of love' (lol)  from them - I think I've got this texting down!(?)

 While showing a novice gardener a plant, I asked her "What kind of exposure will this get?"

"Oh, lots", she replied.  "It will be right out front by the mailbox!"  That disconnect between areas of interest caused me to have this conversation at a garden center where I was working. My reference to 'exposure' was quite different from  what this young lady thought I meant.

  I think these gaps  in understanding could be lessened. So I'd like to start with the plant label.  Growers take the time to print labels, and attached labels, but frequently folks don't understand what they are being told. 

Let's look at this label. 

Mandarin Lights Azalea -  the common name that you and I would use.  The second line, however, is Azalea X 'Mandarin Lights'.  The botanical name is used by growers and other professionals in the green industry to distinguish this 'specific' azalea, "Mandarin Lights'. The specific name is the cultivar - or the cultivated variety.  The grower has developed this by crossing (X) different azaleas to get the size or color blended from each. 

The Northern Lights Series is a group of azaleas that have similar breeding, but may have different features - very much like siblings have in any family.

The bloom time for this azalea is spring, and the color 'bright orange red' is a description of the bloom.  Foliage, or leaves, are dark green.  (These description are on the label so even if  the plant is not in bloom or the leaves haven't emerged for the season, the buyer has a reference of what to expect).

Planting guide for this azalea says the plant does best in well drained soil. 

Obviously, this is not a good choice for planting this azalea.

The label also recommends 'acid' soil. 

pH is the measure of available hydrogen (H) in solution in the soil.  Some plants like an acid soil, (below 7) on this scale.  Some plants needs are for alkaline (above 7) conditions.  A soil test can determine what your soil pH is. Local extension offices or garden centers can assist you in this process. If you have acid soil, you are good to go with this azalea.  However, if your test indicates you have a pH above 7, alkaline, then I would suggest you consider a different plant.

 We can amend (supplement) soils with minerals.  And your soil test will tell you what your soil is missing and how much to apply. However, changing the pH of your soil is difficult.  The soil will always revert to its natural state.  We can add lime to make a garden more alkaline; sulphur to make soil more acid.  These steps will have to be repeated over and over again as your soil reverts to its natural pH.  This calculates into a huge amount of time and money. 

The next part of our plant label indicates this plant does best in 'part shade'. 

Here is how this light requirement is best defined.

Full Sun - minimum of six (6) hours of direct sun. 

Part Sun - or Part Shade are 4 - 6 hours of sun

Full Shade - maximum  2 hours of sun

Some growers will draw a picture - as above - this tells me that this plant can take full shade as shown by the full dark circle.  And this plant will tolerate a little amount of sun   Most plants do need some sun or bright light to bloom well.

The last feature of this plant label I wish to address is the reference to Zone 5.  The US (the whole world, actually) is divided into Hardiness Zones.  The coldest zone that a plant can survive is indicated on these labels.  The Zone 5 is the coldest this azalea will survive.  If  this Zone 5 azalea were planted in Zone 4, a more northern region, it would probably not live. 

Some gardeners like to 'push the envelope' when they plant less hardy plant material in their gardens.  If you

replace too many plants too often, I think that novelty would wear off. 

The plant labels are helpful if we plant according to the recommendation.  I, for one, have put many plants to an early trip to the compost pile by putting it in the wrong spot in my garden.  

The right plant in the right spot. 

Read the label.  

Have you ever challenged a plant to survive in a zone that was too cold?  What plant? And what did you need to do?