Soil Health - the Cornerstone of Life

Beginner Gardeners have come to my attention.  Many do not know where to begin, but they know they want to begin. A friend bought a few acres with the plans to 'garden'.  She also is raising chickens.  While I was reducing our garden beds, I potted up extra plants and gave them to her.  But the focus has been on the plants, and I'd be amiss if I do not give her some other information that will make a world of difference in her new garden.

That information is how, and why the soil is so critical to, not only her garden, but to the environment, and, as far as that goes, the planet. Here is why.

Millions, and billions of microorganisms reside in healthy soil.  The eat organic material, and the enzymes they excrete allow the roots of plants to take up nutrients as needed.  The problem I see as an organic gardener is the media blitzes proclaiming the praises of chemical fertilizers (Specifically, liquid fertilizers). Advertisers do not tell of the harmful effects on the soil.  Chemicals kill microbes and leaves the soil dead. Synthetic fertilizers will feed the roots of plants while it is liquid. However, the soil cannot retain nutrients, so more and more applications of synthetic fertilizers are needed to keep lawns or gardens growing. No amount of chemicals can make up for the benefits of good organic material re-introduced into the soil.

Soil structure that is less than optimal can prohibit roots from taking up moisture and nutrients. Also,sandy soil is so porous that water runs through it rapidly.  So fast that roots have minimal time to take advantage of the moisture.  Clay soils, on the other hand, are so dense, that air and water cannot get down into the roots, thereby suffocating them.

By adding compost to sandy soil, moisture is slowly moved through enabling roots to stay moist longer.  Compost added to clay soil open up the pores and allows air and water to move through the soil.  The diagram above indicates that air and water are vital to good soil, and as little as 5% organic matter can make a weak soil into a healthy base.

The term 'friable' may be used in this instance.  Making the soil crumble-able.  Good organic soil will do this easily.

Nature has a way of building rich organic soil.  The forest is a good example of allowing debris such as leaves, bark, and microbes to return to the earth as organic matter.  This decomposing is Nature at her best. Mimicking Nature is the best way to return to a way of living that many have forsaken.

Adding compost to the lawn and garden will go a long way to reestablishing the balance that nature intended.

Healthy soil improves water-holding capacity reducing runoff of surface water and drawing moisture down. 

These roots indicate that air and water are deep into the soil making for a more robust plant.

Organic soil can maximize plant growth by giving the microorganisms in the soil food.  They decompose the organic matter and return available nutrients to the plants.  Plants thrive and provide food, lodging, and oxygen to the world above.

The message I've tried to convey today is that we need to feed the soil, not the plant.  Healthy soil will take care of the plant's needs IF we take care of the soil. 

Organic Fertilizers–Part 5–Sea Sources

Ocean Plants and Fish Offer Great Fertilizers

From Kelp, we get one of the most nutritious organic fertilizers.  This algae is not the seaweed that washes up on the beach, but a highly sustainable plant that is harvested from the ocean floor.  The kelp regrow within ten days of harvest, giving a fresh harvest that is quite renewable.  
Kelp contains 79 minerals, or micronutrients. The is almost every mineral and trace mineral found in nature. Carbohydrates are available to feed microorganisms in soil when applied as an organic fertilizer.

 

Kelp is the most common type of seaweed. It is processed in three different methods.  One is a Kelp Powder.  The fine ground kelp is small enough to be mixed into a solution.  Applied as a foliar spray, kelp powder solution nutrients that can be taken in by the foliage of plants.



Kelp meal is another version of this organic fertilizer source.  Kelp meal is a good source of potassium , with some nitrogen.  Kelp meal is primarily used as a soil conditioner. 



Kelp meal, or seaweed meal, is dried and milled into a powder as shown here. Liquid kelp is yet another form of this product.  Liquid kelp is usually cold processed and has high amounts of growth hormones.  These hormones are readily available to plants.  Liquid kelp can be mixed into water for application. 



Seaweed is divided into three types – green, brown, or red.


Seaweeds, particularly the green and brown seaweeds, are processed into extracts which are accepted in the horticultural industry to improve plant yields, plant growth, plant health, and the plants have better resistance to insects and diseases. Seaweed extracts are full of macro- and micronutrients.  High in amino acids, and plant growth regulators, seaweed extracts offer a good source of nutrients to benefit plants.




Fish fertilizer is a by-product of the fishing industry.  Most fish that are processed into fertilizers are not fish by-products that come from the food industry, but fish that are specifically used for plants and animals. These are bottom fish that don't make the grade for human consumption.

Like the seaweed, fish fertilizers come in different formulas. Fish powder is ground up, and using heat, produces a water soluble product that is high in nitrogen.



Fish meals are ground up carcasses of fish.  The meal is high in nitrogen with an N-P-K of around 10-6-2. Nitrogen aids in the growth of plants, and the phosphorous benefits good root development.  Use fish meal early in the growing season for vegetables and flowers for a slow release benefits for months.

Using a process called hydrolyzing, which uses enzymes, manufacturers omit the use of heat and acids in making a product that is water soluble and high in nitrogen. This product called Liquid fish are less smelly than Fish emulsions. However, the cost is higher.

Fish emulsions are produced from the fluid remains of the fish. A liquid remains and results in a fish concentrate by evaporating this liquid by about half.  The evaporating portion of this process destroys some nutrients but at 5-2-2, fish emulsions are still known for the micronutrient availability.


Fish bone Meal is high in calcium                                                  

Alaska Fish Fertilizer is OMRI (C) listed

Ok – here is the conundrum I am facing: Do I close this article now, or do I tell you –as Paul Harvey used to say – the rest of the story?

Fish emulsions and fish meal are made mainly from fish that are not suitable for human consumption.  This ‘trash’ fish often contain toxins.  The Menhaden is a fish that spends time in heavily polluted waters and is a popular fish in production of emulsions.  Heavy metals can be found in these fish. Even some freshwater fish that are not allowed for human food, are used in some fish emulsion processes.


Bunker or Menhaden Fish
Fish Processing


Some fish fertilizer companies do use food grade waste products in addition to non-food fish. This may reduce the impact of the toxins that may be in non-food ingredients

When steam is used in the process, it can be problematic too, especially if the water comes from a municipality that chlorinates it’s water. Since the emulsion is ‘reduced’, the chlorine becomes more concentrated too. High chlorine amounts can harm plants.
 
If you can't tell from the product label, check on the MSDS, Material Safety Data Sheet for details.  The MSDS will be specific on ingredients and chemicals in the product.


I will be looking for liquid fish made from the enzymes.  This process retains more of the proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and micronutrients than emulsions.

Peaceful Valley Enzymatic Digested Liquid Fish

Seaweed, kelp, and fish can be excellent fertilizers.  The seaweed and kelp are highly renewable, and the fish by-products offer complete nutrition to plants if they are not loaded with heavy metals.
( I have no financial connection with any of the products I have featured here.)

Worms – What Good Are They Anyway?

Worms Indicate Soil Health

The Earth worm – a garden partner that gets ‘no respect’.  As I was digging weeds and dividing perennials this weekend I gently returned the worms back to the soil. I also noticed little mounds of soil in the lawn and pine needles standing on end in the beds.






The mighty worm did this!  Some species of worms stay close to the surface of the soil.  They are the Epigeic species.  They are small worms that are not harmed when soil temperatures rise and moisture levels lessen.  The Epigeic worms are commonly found in the compost pile. The Endogeic species stay in the upper levels of soil, where their tunnels are more temporary.  The tunnels fill up with casts (poop) as they eat through the soil and deposit it as castings.  The deep burrowing species, the Anecic species are commonly know as night-crawlers, and they burrow vertically, sometimes as deep as 8 feet into the ground. The night-crawlers are the guys that leave the mound of debris at the mouth of the borrow.

Earth Worms have both male and female parts which is known as hermaphrodites.  Worms mate throughout the year.

After mating each worm constructs a cocoon and within a couple of weeks new worms are hatched.  The cocoons are only about 1/4”, and if I have seen one, I didn’t know it.  I’ll keep a watch out now!


The earthworms enhance the soil in four ways.
1) The enhance soil structure.

 
Pores in the soil hold air, and water - The basics for plant growth. If the pores are too small, oxygen cannot get to roots of plants.  If the pores are too large, water drains away from roots too quickly.


2) Worms enhance microorganism activity in soil.  As worms eat microorganisms, such as fungi, bacteria, protozoa and nematodes, the castings they leave are even more filled with active microorganisms.  As the worms digest their food, they produce castings that are already digested nutrients, which makes the nutrients  readily available to plants. Other microorganisms deposited  in the poop, create enzymes that plants also use to convert nutrients.

3) Earthworms mix the soil.  They push up the nutrient rich casting that give texture to the soil.  They also draw down into the soil, debris that will decompose, feed the microorganisms, and create usable nutrients for plants. It is estimated that worms turn over of the top six inches of soil every ten to twenty years. 

4) Earthworms increase water filtration by improving the porosity. This can reduce runoff and decrease pollution that drains into our watershed.
 
This picture shows the lack of organic material in the pale, dense soil.  Note the roots are barely penetrating the surface.  The second picture is one year after organic matter has been added.  The soil is darker, roots extend deep into the soil.  Microorganisms get active when the organic matter, such as beneficial worm castings, is available.  Worms generate tons of casting per acre, per year, dramatically changing the soil structure.
Worm manure or casting is rich in nutrients.  Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium, as well as Magnesium are readily available to plants. The casting create a home for microorganisms, and provide a base for water to be absorbed and held in the soil. 

Few predators bother the earthworm.  We know that birds feed on earthworms, but so do turtles and toads. Moles in the lawn or garden usually indicate a high population of worms also. 
 
As worms enhance the soil from below,  we can also add worm casting to the garden and lawn.  Commercial products are in the marketplace and are easy to apply.  Since the product is odorless and all natural, measuring is not a worry. Apply a scoop to planting holes, along furrows of vegetables, and top dress existing plant material.

Making a ‘tea’ with worm casting is another way to water and feed plants.  Soak worm casting in a bucket for 12-24 hours, strain, and apply to the lawn or garden. 

Vermiculture, the cultivating of worms and worm castings, is another source of  beneficial nutrients for the lawn and garden. I will explain this practice at another time.

Using chemical herbicides and pesticides on the soil can harm the life beneath the surface.  Chemicals will damage the balance of nature and could take years to restore that balance.

Organic matter in any form is good for the soil.  The garden debris can turn your soil into an active bio culture teeming with microorganisms and worms.


If you build it (good soil), they (worms) will come.  Have you used worm castings?  What was your experience? 
Thanks for stopping by today.







 



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Fall Cleanup

Lawn and Garden Preparations for Winter

Fall cleanup for me is directly connected to the weather.  So taking advantage of the sixty degree days has left me with no excuses.  So yesterday, I started the lawn cleanup.

The Little Leaf Linden still has tons of leaves to drop, but the Sycamore, American Planetree  in the back has very large, heavy leaves.  I raked all the perennial beds, pulling the leaves into the grass. I pay particular attention to the Hosta beds because overwintering slugs will lay eggs at or near the crown of each plant.  I have had damage from slugs as early as April when I neglected this part of the cleanup.

The mower mulched the dry leaves well, leaving only ground up organic matter to give the soil a long lasting source of nutrition.
 I last fertilized the lawn in October with a liquid organic spray.  With that feeding and now the mulched leaves, the grass will survive the stress of winter, and grow thick and lush in the spring.

If your grass is still growing, continue to mow.  The over winter length should be about an inch shorter than you mowed in the summer, or approximately 2".

As the rest of the trees drop their 'gift', I will again use the mower to aid in the cleanup.  However, I will use the bag attachment to gather the mulched leaves and grass clipping.  These I will sprinkle over the perennial beds.  This organic material will decompose (nearly) by spring, and will enhance the soils microorganisms and create loose soil that is alive and well. 

This next part of my fall cleanup may sound like I'm a lazy gardener. (Isn't that an oxymoron?)  When in fact I justify leaving the garden pretty much intact as 'that's the way Mother Nature gardens!'  The winter interest
is marvelous and extends the garden another season.

The final fall cleanup chore that is literally calling me out today, is removing the plant stems and food debris from the vegetable garden.  This will go into the compost pile.  Leaving tomatoes or other foods on the ground over winter will encourage diseases and draw animals.  With the vegetable garden cleared, I will have another spot to spread the bagged mulched leaves. 

So, fall cleanup for me is almost complete.  The lawn is fed, the hosta garden is clear, and the coneflowers, globe thistle, and black-eye susans will greet me throughout the dreary days to come, and I will smile.