Landscape Matures–Update on April and Adam’s Landscape Project

In 2010 I lost a large pine tree to some blight.  This opened my once shady garden into a sunny space.  So out came azalea’s, hydrangeas, pachysandra, and hostas.  To make room for sun loving plants, and create more lawn, April and Adam collected daylilies and hostas, and some other plants from my deconstruction project. 





April collected plants and we laid out a plan for the front garden. 


In the mean time, the large pine tree in April and Adam’s front yard went the way of the chainsaw and chipper in much the same way as my pine tree.  But nature has a way of balancing out and the added sun has made this front garden a bright and colorful addition to the landscape. 


Many perennials need time to develop and mature.  The first year of a transplant the roots need to just get established.  Keeping plants evenly moist is critical during the establishment phase.  The plants will sleep, in the fact that the foliage and the blooms are not draining the transplant of needed energy to the roots. 

The second year after a perennial is in the ground, the roots creep along, become more in mass, and take in nutrients to help the plant mature.  The second year the plant will product foliage and some blooms.

But just wait!

The third season – this season for Adam and April – the perennials literally leap from the ground with a spectacular show.



This zebra grass is surrounded by a variegated liriope.  The tall grass anchors this corner of the house without much maintenance.  A shearing to the ground in the late winter or early spring will allow new fresh foliage grow.


This is one of the hosta that was moved, and to the front of it is this ‘Husker Red’, a full, healthy Penstemon with seed heads attached.

 


With the pine tree gone, this sunny area has outdone it’s original plan. Daylilies, Hemerocallis, will produce bloom in part shade, but the added hours of sun to this garden has been a pleasant surprise.  This native spiderwort, Tradescantia was also a surprise.  The strappy foliage was mistaken as a daylily in October when this garden was planted, but the vibrant blue looks well with the yellow daylilies in bloom at this time.



One other design feature to be pointed out is the curved walkway to the front door.  This curve, as opposed to a straight line, is more inviting to a visitor, and frames these beds well.
 
Landscapes need the time to mature, and this is a great example of waiting for the seasons to pass and reward our patience.

Summer Chores For Continued Blooms

The July 4th holiday here in the US is a date on my calendar to get summer chores started in the garden.  Now is the time to ensure blooms continue on perennials and shrubs.  To do this I get out the hedge trimmers and pruners. 
Here are some of the plants I give a summer haircut.  By cutting them back now, the plants do not produce seeds.  Setting seeds indicates to the plants that the season is over.  I want the season to continue well into the coming months. 

This catmint still had blooms and the bees were active.  It was getting straggly and covering up another aster. The catmint, as any plant in the mint family, can become aggressive and spread into the garden.  I have planted this in a gallon container with the bottom removed.  The roots still have garden soil to get nutrients, but the roots are more contained and cannot spread. 

Typical of any plant in the mint family, the stem is square.  Kinda cool!



I have asters in this bed. And I have said before, that I prefer asters to mums because they are more hardy and reliable.  Mums are considered to be ‘tender perennials’ in my Zone 6 garden.  The reason I cut back the asters  by at least a third at this time is to have the plant produce more tips and become more compact.  The more tips, the more buds will be produced for the fall bloom time. 
The Moonbeam coreopsis also shown here gets a haircut too.  Trimming the spent blooms tidies up the plant and, it too, will rebloom in a very short time. 


This stingy mass is a native plant called spiderwort,  Tradescantia. I have several varieties of spiderwort.  Some have gold foliage with deep blue blooms, (Sweet Kate), and some have a pale purple bloom, or a pure white bloom, or a true blue blossom.


At this mid-summer time however, spiderwort get really leggy and blooms are spent.  Cutting them back to 6” allows for the plant to produce fresh foliage will rebloom.


Some herbs that I should have cut back sooner like this lemon thyme and lemon balm have already bloomed and unfortunately have set seed.  That will ensure an invasion of new plants where I least expect them. 


These shrubs, the ninebark and forsythia will not rebloom this season, but they can be pruned at this time with little loss of blooms for next season.  Spring blooming shrubs should be pruned just after the blossoms fade to allow the shrub to grow new stems and set buds. 
The spirea also go a sever cutback. The spent blossoms are brown and the shrub is over grown. I do expect the spirea to rebloom later in the early fall.

As you can see, the overgrown spirea were hiding lungwort and hosta. 
Now with the garden all tidy, I can smile and know that my job as caretaker is under control. 
Enjoy your summer, and with just a few chores, the garden will continue to bloom.
What reblooming plants do you enjoy in your garden?